Claw Wrist and Arm

ARMS	BUBBLE	BRAIN	CHEST	COLLAR	DONUT
KNEES	KNOB	LEGS	MICROPHONE	NEON	POWER PACK
PROG. BAY	RADAR	SPINNERS	TORSO	TORSO HOOK	TREAD
VENT

ARMS & CLAWS

The arm is made from a piece metal dryer duct. In a compressed state it doesn't look too bad, and at 10 bucks the price was right. The wrists are wooden (with some bondo on the tapered front part). The claws are also wood, painted red/orange, and coated with polyurathane. I added a quarter moon piece of mat board where the arm goes into the socket to simulate the rubber flange and painted it to match the arm color. The whole thing is supported inside by a wooden piece and bolted to the interior frame.
Future plans include metal claws and connection to a portable generator capable of generating 40,000 volts like a tesla coil. It's a great thought, you have to admit.

UPDATE

My original claws really sucked. There was no bevel, they weren't thick enough, they were really off. Much better now.
I have also installed rubber arms. The wrists have been repainted with a charcoal gray lacquer.

UPDATE 2

I thought about making this B9 a poseable action figure of sorts. I never planned on installing the actuators, but wanted make it look more lifelike.

This is very low tech. The wrists and arms are attached to a wooden rail that slides through a slot. Originally it was simply going to extend and retract, but by not making a track and just having the rail supported by the piece above, it can also swivel from side to side. It certainly isn't pretty, but it works. There will be a stop pin on the end to prevent pulling the whole thing completely out and possibly damaging the rubber arms.

The wrist has a 4 inch stick attached to it. That connects to the rail with a bolt to allow the wrist to pivot. I tried various springs to give it precise tension, but I couldn't get it quite right. It worked better by just bolting it together with two locking nuts to hold it on. The rail then slides inside the arm hole plate as seen above. The mat board disk (two thicknesses) sits a little less than a quarter inch above the wrist. This allows the rubber arm to slip over the disk to fit tight. Of course, the best way is to use the metal clamp, but I had cut down the rubber when I was young and stupid (?), thus unable to use the "hose clamp" method.